Paya — slow-cooked trotters in a fragrant, unctuous broth — is a dish that lives between tradition and ritual. Across South Asia and the Middle East, paya is a weekend or breakfast specialty: the bones simmer for hours until the collagen becomes silky, the marrow enriches the gravy, and each spoonful feels restorative. This recipe gives a clear, approachable method for making restaurant-style paya at home, with options for stovetop, pressure cooker, and slow cooker. I’ll also share practical tips to get a glossy, gelatin-rich broth without fuss, plus serving ideas that make each bowl sing.
Why this recipe works
Paya relies on three simple things: good bones (meaty trotters), time (gentle simmer), and layering of aromatics. The long braise breaks down connective tissue into gelatin, producing body and mouthfeel that no thickeners can replicate. Browning and a short, sharp tadka (tempering) at the end lifts flavors and adds fragrance.
Serves & timing
- Serves: 4–6
- Prep time: 20 minutes (plus optional marination)
- Cook time (stovetop): 4–6 hours
- Cook time (pressure cooker): 45–60 minutes (plus simmer)
- Cook time (slow cooker): 6–8 hours on low
- Total time: Variable — best if planned the day before
Ingredients
- 1.5–2 kg (3–4 lb) paya (goat, lamb, or beef trotters), cleaned and halved where possible
- ¼ cup ghee or vegetable oil
- 3 large onions, thinly sliced (half for cooking, half for frying/garnish)
- 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
- 2–3 green chilies, slit (optional)
- 2 tsp turmeric powder
- 2 tsp red chili powder or Kashmiri chili powder (adjust for color/heat)
- 2 tsp roasted coriander powder
- 1 tsp cumin powder
- 1–2 tbsp nihari or paya masala (see note to make or buy)
- 1–2 tsp salt (adjust)
- 6–8 cups water or as needed to cover trotters
- Juice of 1 lemon (optional finish)
- Fresh coriander, julienned ginger, fried onions, and green chilies for garnish
Optional quick masala (homemade): dry-roast 2 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tbsp cumin seeds, 4 green cardamoms, 4 cloves, and 1 small cinnamon stick; grind coarsely and keep 1–2 tbsp for cooking.
Equipment
Pressure Cooker vs Slow Cook Method
Pressure Cooker: Quicker (takes around 45 mins to 1 hour)
Slow Cooking: Traditional and deeply flavorful (4–6 hours)
Utensils and Prep Tools
- Heavy-bottom pot or pressure cooker
- A sharp knife for trimming trotters
- Skimmer to remove any scum
- Wooden spatula for stirring
Step-by-step method
1. Clean and prep the paya
Rinse trotters thoroughly under cold water. If cleaned by your butcher, they’re ready; otherwise, blanch them briefly in boiling water for 2–3 minutes, drain and rinse to remove surface scum. This step helps clarify the final broth.
2. Brown aromatics & sear
In a large heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, heat ghee over medium heat. Fry half the sliced onions until golden-brown and soft. Remove and reserve a handful for garnish. Increase the heat and sear the trotters in batches until they pick up color — this caramelization adds depth to the gravy.
3. Build the braise
Return all trotters to the pot. Add ginger-garlic paste and sauté 1–2 minutes. Sprinkle turmeric, chili powder, roasted coriander, cumin, and paya masala; stir to coat the bones. Pour in enough hot water to cover the bones. Bring to a boil, skim any foam, then reduce to the gentlest simmer possible.
4. Slow-simmer or pressure-cook
Stovetop: Cover and simmer on the lowest flame for 4–6 hours. The trotters should become tender, and the broth should thicken and shine. Stir occasionally and top up water if needed.
Pressure cooker: After searing and adding spices, add 4–5 cups of water and pressure-cook 50–60 minutes (depending on size). Release naturally, then simmer uncovered 10–20 minutes to concentrate flavors.
Slow cooker: Transfer to a slow cooker, add spices and enough water, and cook 6–8 hours on low.
5. Adjust texture & finish
When trotters are soft and collagen-rich, test for doneness by scraping a small piece of meat from the bone — it should fall apart. If the broth is too thin, simmer uncovered to reduce; if you prefer a thicker nihari-like finish, whisk in 1–2 tsp roasted wheat flour (atta) mixed into a thin slurry and simmer a few minutes. Finish with lemon juice for brightness if desired.
6. Tadka & garnish
Heat 1–2 tbsp ghee in a small pan, add ½ tsp of paya/nihari masala and briefly fry for an aromatic tadka. Pour this sizzling ghee over the paya. Garnish generously with fried onions, julienned ginger, fresh coriander, and sliced green chilies. Serve piping hot.
Pro tips for perfect paya
Best bones: Choose trotters with a good amount of meat and visible marrow. Lamb/goat paya cooks faster and is sweeter; beef paya is richer and needs longer.
Gentle heat: A whispering simmer converts collagen slowly—avoid rapid boiling, which can break down the broth and make it cloudy.
Don’t rush tasting: Season lightly early on and adjust toward the end — long cooking concentrates salt and spice.
Skim for clarity: Periodically remove foam during the first hour to keep the broth clean.
Make ahead: Paya often tastes better the next day after flavors marry; chill, skim the hardened fat if desired, and reheat gently.
Variations & serving ideas
Nihari-style paya: Add more nihari masala and a small atta slurry to make a thicker, glossy finish; serve with naan or kulcha.
Spicy Karachi-style: Increase green chilies and add a final sprinkle of garam masala.
Light & herbal: Finish with extra lemon and fresh mint for a brighter bowl.
Breakfast tradition: Serve with naan, sheermal, or roasted flatbread, and a side of achaar and boiled eggs.
Storage & reheating
Fridge: Store cooled paya in airtight containers up to 3 days. Reheat on low with a splash of water or stock.
Freeze: Freeze portions without garnish for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight and reheat slowly.
Skim fat: If you prefer a leaner bowl, chill and remove the hardened fat layer before reheating.
Troubleshooting — common issues
Broth too thin: Simmer uncovered to reduce or add a small atta slurry.
Meat still tough: Return to simmer — collagen needs time; pressure-cook if short on time.
Overly salty: Add peeled potatoes or raw rice and simmer briefly to absorb some salt, or dilute with hot water/stock and re-season to taste.
Cloudy broth: Blanch bones first and skim foam early; use low heat to prevent emulsification.
FAQs
1. Can I use beef trotters instead of goat?
Absolutely! Beef trotters are meatier and give a thicker broth. Just adjust cooking time — they take longer.
2. Is Paya gluten-free?
Yes, the dish itself is gluten-free. Just pair it with gluten-free bread or rice.
3. How do I reduce the smell of trotters?
Thorough cleaning, a quick boil, and marination with vinegar and turmeric do the trick.
4. Can I freeze paya?
Yep! Store it in freezer-safe containers for up to a month. Reheat slowly for the best texture.
5. Is paya good for weight loss?
Not exactly! It’s rich, hearty, and high in collagen and fat. Great for nourishment, but eat in moderation if you're watching calories.
Final thoughts
Paya is a dish that rewards patience and good bones. Simple techniques—browning, gentle simmering, and a bright finishing tadka—transform humble trotters into an indulgent, tongue-coating broth that’s as nourishing as it is delicious. Whether you slow-simmer through a weekend morning or speed things up in a pressure cooker, focus on time, temperature, and seasoning—and you’ll have a bowl that becomes a ritual for family and friends.
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